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One thing I've always been curious about with this jig (now, I haven't used one so I may be off here) is the way in which it is used.

The arm swings about the pivot point right? so naturally you will be swinging sandpaper across the top of the body, or do you just swing it in the area of the FB extension? Still you will have some cross grain scratches to remove correct?

How can we make something the allows you to set the angle you want, like Todd here and sand with the direction of the grain? I'm going to think about that.

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[QUOTE=ToddStock] I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with. [/QUOTE]

Me Too

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

    I must add a bit of thought food here. I do understand that you are setting up the top for the neck angle , but the thing about this that I don't like is that you are thinning the top in one area that should be as strong as possible , The fingerboard extension will add alot of stress to this area.
     I do this set up process on the sides before the top is placed. In most cases a 28 foot radius will match the 1 1/2 degree of Martin necks. 25 for stewmac and LMI necks. This way you onlt tweak this area.
     john

I do the exact same thing Todd, same top radius, very similar jig too.

Greg

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Looking forward to seeing and talking with all of you. More to learn every day isn't there.
The day you think you know it all is the say you stop learning.
john

Another great jig, Todd, i like that modification you've made to it, i'll sure do this too, thanks!

Just a quick comment. Very nice jig Todd. I too used to just do this by hand and straight edge. These days I don't do it at all. What I do is leave the Upper Face Brace flat at the center and curved to the top radius on the rest. Then when it is glued to the top it leaves that area of the top already flat to receive the fretboard extension. No sanding needed anymore. You do need to include a small shim into the hollow form when go-bar gluing up the UFB. Just another cat skin...

Alan D.

Nice jig Todd. I'm wondering if omething like this would work before the top is glued on as John noted...I liked Rod's method for "flattening" the upper bout, but I think this method has less thaat can go wrong (at least for me).

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Joe Breault
Merrimack, NH
Perpetual novice

Alan,

I do what you mentioned, but still found a little sanding was helpful.

Greg

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